
Today's soundtrack: here she comes, full blast and top down
Today at 8:02pm: getting my "sea legs"
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I keep forgetting New York is a bunch of islands, islands surrounded by water, water filled with fishes. Or fish.
Nine of us went up to City Island in the Bronx to go deep-sea fishing. It was John's idea, I know nothing about fish, and the most experience I have with fishing is in college I dated a girl who wore fishnet stockings for a few lucky days each semester.
The Bronx is where hip-hop was invented, but City Island, in the same borough, looks almost alarmingly like New England. It's covered in shockingly lush vegetation, green as far as the eye can see, with birds that don't look like pigeons. Hard to believe it's still technically New York City.
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The S.S. Afrika Bambataa
(Okay, not really)
At the end of the dock was this boat a little smaller than the one in
Gilligan's Island. We climbed on board and met the skipper, whose name I never caught, and a guy named Carl, the fishmaster or whatever you call him. Carl was your genuine wizened old fisherman, with grey whiskers and everything.
The skipper was pure outerborough New York, he kind of looked like a burly Billy Joel with tattoos and had the New York Public Schools accent. Carl, the older of the two, looked like Gandalf with shorter hair; his face was weatherbeaten and wrinkled, and although I'm sure he was in his forties, a life under unforgiving sun made him look like an octogenarian. He was wearing a sour expression and suspended blue rubber pants that came up to his chest.
The skipper fired up the engine, which sounded not unlike a Pontiac GTO. He tuned the radio to a classic rock station as we roared slowly away from the dock and into the Long Island Sound.
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Not sure what these are, but they ain't pigoens.
It was about 7pm when we set out. Carl didn't seem particularly interested in talking to any of us, but I asked him some questions anyway.
While talking to him I discovered Carl had a powerful stink on him, like an I-haven't-been-laid-in-25-years kind of stink. (John later insisted my analysis was off by at least nine years, since Carl had a kid who was sixteen, but I'm guessing the kid was adopted.) But I liked Carl right away, and here's why: Some people, when you try to talk to them over the din of something loud, like a boat engine, they'll lean closer to you to hear what you have to say. But Carl didn't lean forward at all, he just cast a wary eye on me and seemed to evaluate what I was saying, to decide whether or not he'd bother responding.
This is a guy who will never bullshit you, I thought. I prefer rude honesty to fake politeness.
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Christy's from Canada and has some experience with fishing.
"What type of fishes are we trying to catch?" I asked her.
"Bass and bluefish," she said. "Do you know what a bluefish is?"
"Of course," I said. "It's the one from the Dr. Seuss book."
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From the piscean horror movie Silence of the Fishes
On one side of the boat was the world's most disgusting sushi table, a grimy and blood-soaked cutting board with all kinds of creepy knives and fish guts on it. Carl took some fish out of a bucket and started hacking them into cross-sections, which he then attached to hooks about the size of a human thumb.
Ringing the perimeter of the boat were about a dozen fishing rods, mounted in holsters made from PVC piping. Carl went around and attached the bait-laden hooks to all of them. His hands were bloody but he didn't seem to mind.
After we'd been driving--is it sailing? No, driving--for about a half-hour, the skipper stopped the boat and put the parking brake on. "Reel 'em out," he called back from the driver's seat.
Carl took one of the rods, "reeled it out" and handed it to me. I wasn't really sure what to do so I stood there with it and fiddled with the controls a little. There's a little rotating crank and some kind of latch that has two positions, like on and off. I guess you turn it on when you want fish.
Eventually everyone had a fishing rod in hand. Some members of the group had clearly done this before and held the rods with an easy, familiar grip. Others looked slightly uncomfortable, like they had just woken up with five-foot penises and were gingerly holding them for the first time.
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Christy was the first to land a fish, and she reeled it in excitedly while everyone shouted. Carl announced it was a bluefish, and as it came out of the water I was disappointed--it looked nothing like the one from the book! Dr. Seuss may have delighted millions of children with his clever little rhyming books, but I can now tell you he is a hack and a scam artist who has clearly never seen a real bluefish in his life.

Look at the drawing, he wasn't even close!
I've never seen a grinch in person either but now
I'm thinking it looks nothing like the cartoon.
The fish was flopping around like crazy on the line. "Don't put your hands near its mouth," shouted the skipper, grabbing it while we all stared. "It's got teeth like razor blades, it'll take your fingers right off."

You wanna stick your fingers in that thing, be my guest.
After landing her fish Christy dropped her rod on the deck, and an infuriated Carl gave her an earful, like totally chewed her out. We were in Carl's world. When you're an expert on some type of craft that all the other passengers are unfamiliar with, you can get away with being bluntly unkind. If I was trapped on the Space Shuttle and one of the astronauts was yelling "I SAID PASS THE TANG, ASSHOLE" at me I'd probably put up with it.
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More than once I was sure Carl was going
to hurl me over the side of the boat.
Next I got a bite, and my fishing line started unspooling like crazy. Carl shook his head, snatched the rod out of my hands and did something with the controls.
"It got away," he said in disgust, handing the rod back to me. He flipped the latch to one position, demonstrating how to keep the line locked in place, which is apparently how you're supposed to hold it, and looked at me like I just ate someone's asshole out.
I reeled my line back up to inspect it. The fish I didn't catch had taken a big-ass chunk out of the bait, mangling it, without touching the hook. The son of a bitch got a free meal!
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If anyone has ever called you a chum-
bucket, this is what they're referring to.
I'm sorry, my friend.
The sun started going down, and the skipper fired up the engines again. "Reel 'em in," he called back, and the nine of us obeyed. As Led Zeppelin came wafting out of the speakers, he steered the boat further out, towards deeper waters. I checked my back pocket to make sure my knife was still there. I brought it in case of, you know, pirates. Laugh if you want but if we got boarded I wouldn't be fighting them off with a rusty fishhook, no, no.
The sky was dark. I could see the faint, orange-ish glow of Manhattan's light pollution in the direction we had come from, but the direction we were headed in was pitch dark.
Led Zeppelin changed to Van Halen, and the skipper turned the floodlights on, illuminating the boat deck. The boat suddenly felt very small and the dark water seemed very big. It was pretty cool. We were like this small, brightly-lit beacon of classic rock driving out into the inky blackness.
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About an hour out the skipper parked again, and we all "reeled 'em out." I tried copying what I saw Carl do earlier, which was to flick the hook really far, but I couldn't get it to go further than three feet before it hit the water.
Carl demonstrated with the pole next to me. He manipulated the rod deftly and flicked his wrist, sending the bait soaring a good twenty five feet away from the boat. "Ay Carl," I said. "You've done this before, huh."
"My second day," he grinned, and it was the only time I saw him smile the whole trip.
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Me and Francis were at the back of the boat, and something small, bright and far away caught my vision.
"Fireworks," someone said. A pyrotechnic show was taking place somewhere over Manhattan. Bright starbursts of red, white and blue, tiny and distant, exploded silently over the horizon.
"Isn't it a little early for July 4th?" said Jiae.
"It's probably the warm-up show," I said. I pictured a bunch of Macy's interns blowing their fingers off while the fireworks director ironed out the kinks.
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"Fish on," I heard someone yell, then turned to see Frankie frantically reeling one in and leaning backwards while her pole bent forwards. I put my rod in the holster and rushed to the side of the boat to see this enormous silver thing zig-zagging through the water. After struggling for a bit she hauled this enormous bluefish, must've been thirty inches long, up onto the deck, where Carl grabbed it. His back was to me and I couldn't see how he removed it from the hook. The freed fish wriggled around on the deck like a jumping bean, then Carl stomped his foot down on its head, producing blood.
But the fish didn't die. Carl picked it up and threw it into the fish bin, where it continued wriggling on a bed of his dead buddies. Kinda creepy.
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I was at the back of the boat, but Christy and Frankie had both caught their fishes on the right side, so I abandoned Francis and moved over there. The skipper was talking with Frankie (a girl, not to be confused with Francis, a guy).
"During the daytime I work on a ferry," said the skipper. "I used to be with the Staten Island Ferry, then I started with this smaller ferry up here. It's two minutes from my house so it's a lot better for me. Only difference is the passengers on the first ferry are alive, on this one they're all dead."
I looked at him blankly.
"Potter's Field," he explained, referencing the cemetery on Hart Island where New York City (using friendly prison labor borrowed from Riker's, another untouristed city island) buries its anonymous dead--homeless people and the bodies at the morgue no one shows up to claim. I always wondered how they got the bodies out there, and now I'd met the man who ferried them. I'm hanging out with friggin' Charon over here.
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Then I caught a fish! I don't remember feeling a tug; it seemed I went from doing nothing to having an animated tug of war with a suddenly epileptic fishing rod. I stood dumbly in place, jerking the stick around like I was being electrocuted, until the skipper's hoarse shouting reminded me that I had to reel the damn thing in. It wasn't easy--for such a small, flat animal, a fish generates an absurd amount of opposing thrust--but eventually I sealed the fish's fate with small, steady rotations of my hand.
Once it came up out of the water, Carl bumped me out of the way and snatched the wriggling bluefish in his hands. It was maybe a foot long. Carl used some kind of metal stick to separate the fish from the hook with a twirling motion, and whacked it on the deck. Then he picked it up and threw it hard on the deck, WHAP, the way you throw a phone book at a cockroach.
The fish didn't die. Carl stomped on its head, which made the fish bloody but it still kept flopping around. He picked it up and threw it in the bin, where it continued twitching. I thought I saw Christy's fish, which had stopped twitching, start moving again, and that was creepy.
It was kind of exciting when I caught it, but the feeling passed almost instantly. Catching fish is not like a real kill, where you're lining a deer up in rifle crosshairs or stomping on the gas while aiming the hood of your Chevy at a deadbeat bookie who had it coming to him. You just kind of stand there waiting, maybe you kill something and maybe you don't.
I watched the fish twitching around in the bin with mixed feelings. It's always weird to do something like camping or fishing--activities that were once necessary for survival but that have now been reduced, in this era of boutique hotels and supermarkets, to a quaint form of recreation.
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The group observed that all the fish were being caught on one side of the boat. Kirk, Tony, Neil and Francis, all luckless, were on the other side.
"You guys want to come over to the good side?" Jiae offered.
"Nah, we can do it over here," said Kirk, sticking to his guns. He was drunk and a little merry. "Come on, starboard side!" he cheered.
I looked to see he was sitting on the left side of the boat. "For fuck's sake, that's
port," I pointed out.
"Come on, port side!" said Kirk.
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Pete and John also caught some fishes. We stayed out for about five hours total, and I was proud I didn't have to use the bathroom once. It was below decks and the second Tony went down there he got seasick.
Around midnight the skipper turned the boat around and hit the gas. "Reel 'em up," he called, for the last time.
All in all it was pretty fun, especially with the classic rock station playing in the background. You haven't lived until you've been serenaded by Axl Rose on the Long Island Sound while fireworks go off over Manhattan.
I think we passed Hart's Island on the way back, but I couldn't be sure in the darkness. Kind of an interesting day job the skipper had. All of us would go back to Manhattan, and tomorrow the captain would go back to his Potter's Field ferry. The group of us paid sixty bucks each for the privilege of his passage; but if you die friendless and alone in New York, the city's final gift to you is a free boat ride. I think ours was a better deal.

